Friday 26 August 2011

Home!

"Mum risks dangerous whirlpools to help trust" is the heading of the article in the Aberdeen Evening Express. Rather worryingly it goes on to report I have 2 children. Where are my 3rd child and my 2 grandchildren ?.  Surely "Grandmother risks life in dangerous whirlpools to help Trust" may have been a slightly more accurate and interesting headline. However this is the Evening Ex and the poor reporter had to contend with interviewing me with a backdrop of roaring traffic on the A85, and all publicity as they say.......
The Press an Journal could have had the heading "N.E woman is not lost at sea" (there is an urban myth that the parochial P&J reported on the sinking of the Titanic as "N.E. man lost at sea") but had "N.E. woman swims across whirlpool to raise £1300 for charity". Accurate in all respects but the total which has increased by nearly £400 in 2 days with more promised!
The final leg of the challenge is now complete with 427.72 on the clock. These last 2 days have been hard. The swim done , my clothes stinking I just wanted home. Wednesday I did 50 miles, yesterday 71 and today 56. The hills became harder and harder but when I stoppped in at Mary and Nigel's in Aberdeen I traded my wet camping gear (it had rained last night at St Cyrus) for mushrooms, broccoli and onions. So a much lighter load  for the last 18 miles and something for my tea. My clothes are undergoing an industrial strength wash, I have had a lush infused bath , food and a glass (or 2) of something cold and bubbly, the cat has been stroked ( a lot, he is high maintenance)everything else can wait for the morrow. Photos to follow and much much much thanks for everyone's support and help to get me there and back in one piece.

Wednesday 24 August 2011

Whose idea was this ?

23 rd August
Having eventually fallen asleep the morning light through the open fly sheet woke me gently just before my raucous alarm went off. I had been conserving the battery by switching off my phone except for an all important communication with Struan at Coastal Connection. They were coming to pick me up at 09.10 approximately. I had given the battery a boost with a solar -powered charger that had been converting sun energy into a pitifully small amount of mobile friendly energy for 2 days.
After striking camp and having a breakfast of malt loaf , dried bananas , coffee and tomato I nipped up to thank Joan   and Mike for the toms but no- one appeared up so I left a note.
Coastal Connection are coming

I was ready when the boat came. Andrew who was crewing for Struan for the day came to the jetty with the rib.
He first took the bike and trailer  back to the boat. I saw him hand up the trailer ( not light weight) to Struan who had to carry it towards the bow of the bigger boat. I was a little concerned as to what might  happen to Struan and trailer if there was a slip but I needn't have worried.


Bike and  Trailer transferred by Andrew

The trailer is loaded

Then it was my turn and soon I was on board and we were off. Rory from JMT had come to take photos for the publicity and friends Carole and Alan were also on board to give  support
The weather was again kind but there was more of a swell. I tried not to think of what was ahead as we cruised and drifted around the Corryvreckan looking at the eddies , swirls and riffs of water. We saw plenty of seals but no cetaceans.
I got into my wetsuit , found my seasick bands and was ready to go when the instruments on the boat indicated that the tide speed had dropped to 0. 5 knots.
I was loaded back into the rib along with Andrew, who was going to be keeping close by in the rib, and Rory. They deposited me on the rocks on the Jura side and then I waited for the go ahead and I was off. (Videos by Alan Scott)


I swam without putting my head in properly to get warmed up but found that I couldn't get into a rhythm , always my problem when under pressure. I rolled onto my back and quickly felt comfortable . I was counting strokes and after a while figured I had covered about half the distance. I stopped to tread water and asked Andrew of we were half way. He told me that I had done about 2/3 rds and only taken 15 minutes.


This was great but unfortunately it then started to unravel a bit. The sea was increasing, maybe I had gone out too strongly but I felt I was tiring so I slowed down and it became more of a struggle. The waves were hitting me and at times it was difficult to breathe. Scarba wasn't getting any closer but Andrew, Rory, Struan Carole and Alan all continued to shout encouragement.

Then Andrew said 75 metres. This wasn't far so I tried to get back into a rhythm. With only 25 metres to go I felt I couldn't go on . This was terrible and I knew that to give up then would be something I couldn't live with. Andrew was there again telling me that I had plenty of time and that I could do it so I took a few more strokes and finally touched Scarba and tried to haul myself onto the rocks. I missed a couple of times then was there and almost threw up.


It took a while to get my breath back but I still had to get back to the rib because the sea was such that Andrew couldn't bring the rib in to where I was.
Actually this turned out to be easy and I just let Andrew haul me in.
Back on the main boat everyone was  congratulating me and asking how I felt. Truth be told I had no idea. I had just swum the Corryvrechan and I didn't quite believe it. It was all over so quick after months of preparation. No I was not going to do it again.  Struan told that I had taken 30 minutes so I had plenty of time to spare.
The sea however had changed and what had been almost flat calm was now full of white horses so it's a good thing I finished when I did.
Hot drinks and chocolate restored my equilibrium and eventually I was able to work up the energy to get out of my wet suit and into some warm clothing. Struan took us back to Coastal Connection base where I met his parents ( the rest had already met them) more congratulating and Alan and Carole produced a bottle of Champagne which somehow I managed to open and pour out for all. I was still in a bit of a daze.
(L-R)Struan, Heather , dogs, Alan, Carole, Rory

Then we loaded bike and trailer between Heather's car and A&C s and Heather showed us the way to Poppies on the other side of Oban where A&C treated me and Rory to some much needed food! This also took a good few miles off  my bike ride that day.
I was able to charge up my phone and between Rory and myself we started to let people know that I had done it. Finally we all needed to get on the road to our various destinations. I set off on the bike to Dalmally ( hopefully) the others went on by car.
I discovered that all my good luck with the weather was now beginning to turn and I had to contend with a stiff head wind. However just  occasionally if I passed someone I shouted out" I ve just swum the Corryvreckan " I think it was just sinking in. At  Dalmally I decided that I would pamper myself with a B&B rather than camp. I stumbled across Mabel who runs a B&B next door to the place where John Smith ( former leader of the labour party in opposition) was born.
Mabel spoilt me rotten with food, a bath and a good blether. Fell into bed  and couldn't sleep!
Wednesday to Crieff to Deirdre 's and Ronald and Alison's.
Thence home by Friday maybe.
Photos to be posted Saturday or Sunday

Tuesday 23 August 2011

One more sleep



End of Public Road
Rush hour on Jura
Woke after  a wonderful sleep. Packed up and reached the road end by nine. Found it guarded by a herd of coos who weren't going to budge. Inched past them making reassuring noises that  I wasn't going to take their calves.The track at this point looked no worse than the public road but it didn't last and for 5 miles pushed the bike and trailer, the latter getting caught on the rushes in the centre of the track. Generally though it was ok if a bit slow.


Barnhill
A mile after the house where George  Orwell wrote 1984 I came  to  Kinauachdrachd at about 11.30 . I  went to introduce myself to Joan and  Mike to find that their son, Duncan had just arrived with Ian McKinnon by boat from the mainland. Duncan remembered my parents and their  V.W.  van. Ian is the grandson of the former ferryman who lived at Kinaudrachd. His father had been one of 9 children brought up there. Ian had some fascinating historical tales to tell. Also he knew various people I knew. We discussed how well the weather looked for my swim and then I  went off to pitch my tent to leave Joan and Mike to their visitors.
My campsite was down on the bay. Kinuachdrachd apparently means "harbour of  the ebbing tide" another good omen for me. I may get to see otters. Kinuachdrachd has some of the ancient woodland that use to cover the whole of Jura. It has survived by being protected from grazing pressures that has seen most of Jura reduced to open moorland.
Kinuachrachd

Later I stopped in on Joan and Mike whose visitors had gone. Mike is in a wheelchair as a result of Lyme disease (a tick-borne illness which is extremely debilitating if not treated early). We set the world to rights  ( well a bit ) before I headed to the north end of Jura to see the Corryvreckan . On the way I met Polly and Mike , an English couple who are on holiday. They were interested in what I was doing and promised to look up John Muir Trust on their return to the world of computer communications. (they did and sponsored me, Thank-you so much!)


Gulf of the Corryvrechan













To me , when I got there , the Corryvreckan looked reasonable but as I sat in the lovely sunshine it seemed to grow bigger. I returned my tent to find a gift of 3 home grown tomatoes from Joan & Mike. delicious
I rightly guessed that I wouldn't sleep   nor would I see any otters. Tomorrow, well ....

From the Paps

To summarize day 7
Scree  ( bloody scree)
Mist bloody mist
deer at the Bealach , the most life I saw all day

Summit (in mist) of Beinn an Oir 785m
Historic remnants  of the experiments of the boiling point of water ( at different altitudes) on summit (1812) possibly (old wooden  box with metal container that some anti-social people had filled with rubbish. This on Beinn Shiantaidh
Losing path on way down back to bike on Sunday
Cow pats
Cyclist hating packs (well 3) of spaniels
Hills and potholes and cowpats all the way to Ardlussa
Spills on the bike( because of above)
Bruises
Most comfy campsite yet ( but more cow pats)
Cows and more cows
Sunday miles on clock 223.8
Miles done 14.3
Eggs smashed 2
Cow pats 207 (ok , I haven't a clue)

To the Paps

Day  5 (Friday19th)because I missed it and  later Day 6 ( Saturday)

I fought the wind and won!
Last night I had some noisy neighbours who regularly had a domestic every half hour or so. A knowledgeable person would have been able to identify whether this raucous lot were barnacle , greylag or whatever geese variety visits Islay in August ( or perhaps they never left).
The good weather stayed overnight but as I packed my tent , the wind got up and the clouds obscured the sun.
I headed out on the road to Port Ellen where I discovered the wind was from the S.E. and therefore almost directly in my face. The road is long and straight but the road side verges were full of colour with scabious, knapweed, vetch and much more.
I went into Port Ellen where the tiny village store is packed with everything you could and more. I had no room for olives and left the beer but bought bits and pieces for lunch which I took out to Port Ellen lighthouse which I had wanted to visit.








I fully intended to go for a swim but managed to run out of time. I looked to the sea and was not impressed. The waves looked serious and the wind was only about Force 4.
Said wind was behind me on my way back and I made excellent time stopping at the brewery just beyond Bridgend. I have not done much of the traditional Islay stuff but I don't like whisky!
Whilst waiting for the ferry to Jura I was again approached by a man wanting to know more about my trailer. He even offered to pump up my tyres with his track pump ( my hand pump lets more air out than in).
The tide was ripping through , no Corryvreckan but scary enough. The ferry is only £1.50 one way with the friendliest of crew.
The force 4 had strengthened considerably to nearer 6 and I struggled into it uphill for the first 4 miles. The man from the Jura hotel ( who had been at the brewery buying beer) stopped and offered to take my trailer ,  I declined ( I have had a number of such offers but declined them all , this was the most tempting as the wind was foul). Just after the 4 mile milepost I was rewarded by the sight of a pair of hen harriers quartering the moor.
Jura is very different from Islay. The pressure of grazing from the high numbers of deer have left the vegetation impoverished with mainly moor grass, rush and bracken. The verge-side flowers are virtually nonexistent with just tormentil surviving the grazing.
Once the road turned North up the coast I was able to make much better arriving in Craighouse at 7.40 (90 mins to do 8 miles!)
Camping in the front garden of the hotel is hardly wild but there is access to showers , hot food and drink! For pudding I chose "the Paps of Jura" but they were out of tablet ice-cream so I had my second choice, the Corryvreckan whirlpool.
Miles on the clock 206.2
Miles today 40.2

Tomorrow the forecast is poor, better on Sunday so I may just chill



Saturday 20th
Woke to sunshine. The Paps had a head each of cloud but it looked as if it would lift. I checked the forecast at the shop and found that it was to be good until Tuesday!
Back at the campsite  I chatted to my neighbours , 3 men from Arran (2 of them) and 1 from Yorkshire . We swooped notes. I told them about the John Muir Trust, they told me about an open fishing bothy that was good for an overnight stop. I decided that I would stop out overnight, so no hurry then!
What with chatting, packing and generally being on island time I didn't leave the campsite until well after 11, had a gentle 2 mile level cycle then spent more time repacking my rucksack with everything I needed , well almost.
Barely had I started walking when I came across a particularly sluggish adder (it had been a cold night), so slow in moving I was able to get my camera out and take a photo.
  
. I saw another ( quicker) adder, a very quick lizard ,lots of frogs, a golden ringed tailed dragon fly, a male black darter dragonfly Sympetrum danae.(thanks Daryl for i.d.)

Sympetrum danae.(male black darter dragonfly)
3 species of butterfly ( large Heath, peacock and meadow brown) a dipper and a kestrel. All of which had to be looked at  , photographed if possible and generally admired. I got to the bothy at 2!
Beinn Chaolais(733m)
 Where had the day gone.? Then discovered that I had left my lighter behind so no brew( or hot food at the end of the day) .
I left my tea and sleeping stuff with a note and headed off for Beinn Chaolais eventually reaching the summit in a slow 2 hrs 30 mins.  The views would have been spectacular but for the haze which rendered Mull and the mainland misty outlines. Colonsay and Islay however showed up well. I spent 30 mins checking my e-mails updating my blog and FB as I had a signal. By this time I had decided to leave the other 2 Paps until tomorrow and have an early  night. Back at the bothy I was visited by a diver ( black throat I think but the light was poor) in bed early but couldn't sleep.
Miles on clock 209.5
Miles today 3.5
Paps 1

Friday 19 August 2011

Up the glen, by the loch and over the sea to Islay

Whoops, when reading my blog for something else I discovered that Day 3 and half of Day 4 hadn't  been entered ( I had cut and pasted from my i-phone notes) So belated here is day 3......
Day 3 dedicated to big George Scott.
The day started well although I was an hour late in setting off (from Comrie)but the sun was shinning. There is no real alternative on a road bike but to go via the A85 (there is the South Loch Earn road for a few miles). Still it has it's compensations not least the chance to stop at The Real Food Cafe at Tyndrum. Long before I arrived there ( a mere 3.3 miles from Comrie) I was rewarded with a close up view of a red kite, no doubt on the look out for road kill. It wasn't convenient to stop and take a photo though otherwise I may have become the road kill!
I had been told that the cycle route up  Glen Ogle was a gentle climb up the old railway ...... It was but only after the first mile of steep hair pin bends. With the trailer on the back I ended up walking, not something I normally do with a bike.
Loch Earn

Somewhere back on the road, a large motorhome towing a small car passed me. Later, in between Crianlarich and Tyndrum I saw it parked in a layby. The small car had the logo " Angel Cakes Ellon" written on it. I immediately stopped and spoke to the couple saying "I know you, or at least I know someone who knows you" one of my colleagues was telling me how she had met this couple in Hawaii and they have remained good friends. The couple were delighted , offered me a drink which I declined as I was desperate to get to Tyndrum ( I did have one of Jimmy and Vicky's hen's eggs with me but was saving that for tea)
At the Real Food Cafe I sat outside in the sun , ending up talking to Sarah the owner about what I was doing. She does iron man events but gave me lots of encouragement. I left her with a copy of the John Muir  Trust vision.
After a superb lunch ( veggie rosti , salad , chips and beetroot and choc cake for later, I was back on the road feeling full of energy, next stop Loch Awe. However the south Loch Awe road was meant to be flat. Again the reporter failed to mention  the couple of very steep hills to start with.  not good when you are looking to put dome more miles in before bed. Towards the end of the road I started looking for likely camping places by the lochside . Unfortunately they were all taken , popular place and I ended up camping near a campervan .

Loch Awe

Total on the clock 121.1  Milesge today 67.3.
Sunset, Loch Awe













According to Les at Edin bike co-op towing a trailer is like halving your normal distance (double the effort). I don't know if it is quite like that. I would say I could have covered a hundred miles without a trailer. I also had to contend with a westerly wind which I certainly felt.

Day 4
After a restless night, with no alarm set, I again set off later than intended. My aim was to catch the 2 pm ferry to Islay , an impossibility as it happens as the ferry is at 1 pm!
Early morning dew on thistle
I actually made good time, using cycle route 78 which made a pleasant change from the main road. Part of the way is along the Crinan Canal and there were lots of peacock and ringlet butterflies all of whom were camera shy.


Crinan Canal

It was a lovely day , I can't believe my luck so far, let's hope it holds until next week. However when I arrived at Kennacraig I discovered that I had remembered the time of the ferry wrongly and had over 4 hours to wait. The tide was wrong for a swim so I went in search of butterflies to photograph. No success but I had some more views of  Arran which I had seen earlier in the day. Couldn't quite see the Paps of Jura. Saw a roe deer who barked at me in a disgruntled fashion. Back at the ferry terminal a man came and asked me about my trailer. He turnedout to be an  Islay man and keen cyclist. He suggested a beach beyond Bowmore for camping and also warned me about the very slow pull up out of Port Askaig.
Jura

As it happens I didn't get to the sandy beach. It was getting dark by the time I rolled into Bowmore and I headed for the nearest beach. I am now perched on a very soft bank above the stony beach. If the wind gets up  I may be on trouble but at the moment it is a beautiful calm evening with oyster catchers and curlews calling.
On the clock 166.0
Mileage today 44.9

Wednesday 17 August 2011

Problems, what problems?

After a sleepless night I started off almost an hour behind my planned time but the sun was shining and I had some time to play with. After 5 miles my bike came to a stop and horrors of horrors I found that I hadn't put the back wheel on properly. Thankfully it didn't come off and once sorted my speed improved.
All this meant I had less time to chat with my sister,Mary and husband Nigel in Aberdeen (18 miles on)but they waved me off on my next leg to the Edinburgh bike co op where Scott did some last minute adjustments before I headed for the train. Mary joined me again there to help if needed. Staff at the station were great though and no complaints about my trailer.
At Mary's and Nigel's  ( photo by Nigel Dower)

At Edinburgh haymarket I got off no bother but my biggest problem was finding the Union Canal as I dodged rush hour traffic. All the other cyclists confidently whizzed past, weaving through the cars and overtaking buses. Google maps on my phone proved impossible to read inthe bright sunlight so I had to ask directions. Once on the canal I hit rush hour bike traffic but had a pleasant, sunny cycle to my daughter , Rachel , in Ratho.
Union Canal


31.37 miles on the clock. Day 1 over and everything went more or less smoothly.

Day 2 and in the morning in typical miserable weather we gave Big George a good send off. I left the proceedings after the crematorium and headed on the bus back to Ratho. It was still raining but as I set off the sun came out and I had a pleasant cycle to Edinburgh Park Station and from there the train to Dunblane. I arrived in sunshine and after a bit of a struggle over the foot bridge was on my road to Comrie. A sudden shower meant that I got thoroughly soaked before spending a very pleasant evening was spent with Jimmy and Vicky day 2 over and 53.8 on the clock(total)